Pics and Info

This thing is sick. So far I have done a bunch of rides around the neighborhood, four 38 mile round trip rides to work, and a few 15 or so mile round-trips on roads, rails to trails, and running through some grass fields....surprisingly smooth ahhh. Feels balanced and stable, even hops off curbs pretty balanced. I weigh 262 and have yet to break anything even after some more aggressive rides

This is pictured with my original 36/32, 32/36 dinglespeed, but I have since changed it to 40/26 and 32/34 so that my cadence would be lower at higher speeds. I put some non-Pinion chain tensioner on.

I modified my dropouts so that I could run the shortest chain stay length. 27.5 wheels!!! 3.0" T-Fatty in the rear, Halo Twin rails otherwise.

The Wren fork locks out more than any other fork I have found, although I don't know about the Fox inverted fork(s). The Wren pretty much feels rigid, with just a tiny give, and does not blow out, as far as I have found.

Adjusting the settings that relate to how sensitive the twist throttle are made this wayyy better. And I put the amount of time it takes for the voltage to go from zero to max--at a minimum. This gives it more punch!!! :) Yen yennn!!!!

I am most impressed at how this climbs on roads in the highest assistance level while pedalling--hauls!!!

--I folded bike tubes and sewed them to the battery strap channels to support weight and to pad. I did have to file one of the battery strap channels to make the battery fit.
--Size medium Bruzer, 240mm OneUp dropper 😁. I'm 5'11" and ride with the seat high, but I don't think I'll crack the frame because there's so much seat post sunk. Used my buddy's dropper lever that came off his stock 2023 Roscoe 8 and it just barely clears. You could use a different one and file it down so it clears. Or get a Tout Terrain trigger shifter and ditch the grip shift.
--I made a wing nut for the torque arm that can be removed without tools by cutting off the head of a bolt and then JB cold welding the wing nut on.
--Primed, painted, and clear coated the battery straps, and the top tube straps also function to relieve some of the weight that would otherwise be on the down tube.
--The rear 4 bolt chainring adapter was taken from a tandem crank set from sjs cycles https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cranks/shun-alloy-104-pcd-4arm-freewheeling-cranks-170-mm-silver/?geoc=US. Now with my 40/26 gearing I don't even appropriately use it. I did drill through it because I could not drill through the five bolt flange on the freewheel.
--White Brothers high engagement freewheel. It looks like they don't make this one anymore. High engagement hubs seem less important now after doing the build because the rear wheel is generally spinning faster.
--I glued the magnetic PAS ring on the back of the SJS adapter
--Front adapter was through Pinion, 104BCD
--I cut the grip off that came on the half twist throttle and wrapped thick black (flashing?) tape to bring the diameter of the handlebars to that of the twist throttle, and then I put the mushroom grips on.

Grin is sweet, very helpful during the process. Using a 150mm rear acoustic hub made this whole process way more complicated than if I had a 148mm one, for brake spacing and other things.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!