Batteries are a key component of ebikes and all other electric vehicles and they have evolved and improved to a staggering degree since we first got into this scene in the early 2000's. Lithium batteries went from being a source of endless frustrations one of the most dependable parts of an ebike builds, all the while getting less expensive and longer lasting year after year. Unfortunately the webpage following this article is a legacy page from 10 years ago due for a rewrite
This section goes over most of the things you would want to check to see what hub motors options would be compatible with a given bicycle frame. While we have hub motor options that will work with virtually any bike frame you throw at us, some knowledge is required to figure out what those options are.
There are lots and lots of connector types used in the ebike industry, so many that it would be a very tall order to try and list them all. In our business, we focus just on aftermarket conversion kits and have tried to keep the connector styles down to a well chosen minimal set. This page explains some of the connector models we use as well as others commonly seen on ebikes, but it is far from exhaustive.
One of the things about meshing complex electrical and mechanical systems together is that occasionally things can go wrong! We've seen more than our fair share of ebike issues come and go over the years - from shot ball bearings, seized freewheels and stripped threads to defective hall sensors, blown mosfets and connector issues. We've learnt a lot along the way and continue to use this experience to help create more efficient and more reliable electric bikes...
There are many good print and online references for lacing bicycle wheels. Many will defer to Sheldon Brown, Brandt's Bicycle Wheel Book, and others. However, a lot of the points and details with a conventional bicycle hubs don't necessarily apply to hub motors with their much larger flange diameter.